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A Lesson in Pinot Noir: Field Notes from the Winemaker

Fri 29 Nov 2024

Crafting a wine as distinctive as the Grand Assemblage Pinot Noir is equal parts artistry and precision, says Winemaker Tom Wallace. "Born from a relentless pursuit of balance, structure, and character—barrel by barrel, clone by clone, and vintage by vintage."

This Pinot Noir is the result of over 300 barrels meticulously reviewed, refined, and blended. The process wasn’t about simply identifying the “best” barrels; it was about finding harmony. Which barrels complemented each other? Which combinations brought out nuances that might otherwise be lost? It’s this iterative exploration that defines the craft.

The final blend comprises seven barrels and four clones: MV6, 115, 777, and D4V2. Each clone contributes its own personality—fruit intensity, spice, structure, or lift—coming together in a symphony of balance and length. Interestingly, this balance emerged naturally, as if the wine was shaping itself.

56% of the blend matured in new French oak for 12 months, not to impart overt oaky flavours but to add depth, structure, and an integrated tannin profile. This extended barrel time also gave the wine clarity, requiring no fining or filtration. The result? A purity of expression rarely achieved.

Among the standout elements of this wine is the use of 100% whole-bunch carbonic fermentation. This technique added a striking intensity to the fruit while introducing a sappy, stalky length and notes of wild cherries and bright red fruits. Sarsaparilla hints from the carbonic process intertwine with subtle spiciness and delicate toast from the oak, creating layers that reveal themselves sip after sip.

Vines from Tamar Ridge’s iconic blocks—K25, K28, and K06, with roots over 20 years old—provided the foundation. These blocks are a testament to the Tamar Valley’s unique terroir and the decades of care poured into each vineyard.

Perfumed and seductive, the Grand Assemblage screams Pinot Noir in the best possible way. It’s full and rich yet bright and vibrant—a contradiction that Pinot lovers revel in. With 12 months of bottle maturation, this wine is ready to drink now, though it will only grow more refined over the next 10 to 20 years.

Every sip of the 2022 Grand Assemblage tells the story of the Tamar Valley, of relentless pursuit and quiet discovery. It’s a wine that demands attention—not just for its complexity but for the meticulous craftsmanship behind it.

For those who appreciate the artistry of winemaking, the Grand Assemblage is a glimpse into the mind of a winemaker, where obsession meets inspiration, and the result is nothing short of extraordinary.

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